
Pineapple Buns That Taste Like My Childhood
So here's the thing about pineapple buns: there's no pineapple in them. Zero. The name comes from the crackled cookie topping that looks like the surface of a pineapple. This confuses basically every non-Chinese person I've ever explained it to, and honestly, it's one of my favorite things about this bread.
Bo lo bao (菠蘿包) was the first thing I'd grab when Popo took me to the Chinese bakery on Saturday mornings. We'd get a bag of them still warm, and I'd tear one open in the car — soft, fluffy bread under a sweet, buttery cookie crust that shattered into crumbs everywhere. My mom hated the mess. I didn't care.
I've been trying to recreate bakery-quality pineapple buns at home for years, and I've finally NAILED it. The secret? Tangzhong — a cooked flour paste that makes the bread impossibly soft and keeps it fresh for days.
Ingredients — Tangzhong (Starter)
- 3 tablespoons bread flour
- ½ cup (120ml) whole milk
Ingredients — Bread Dough
- 3 cups (375g) bread flour
- ⅓ cup (65g) sugar
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 2¼ teaspoons (7g) instant yeast
- ½ cup (120ml) whole milk, warm
- 1 large egg
- 4 tablespoons (56g) softened butter
- All of the tangzhong
Ingredients — Cookie Topping
- ½ cup (113g) softened butter
- ½ cup (65g) powdered sugar
- 1 large egg
- 1½ cups (190g) all-purpose flour
- ½ teaspoon baking powder
- 2 tablespoons custard powder or milk powder
The Method
Tangzhong: Whisk flour and milk in a small saucepan over medium heat until it becomes a thick paste (like a roux). Takes about 2-3 minutes. Let it cool completely.
The dough: Combine bread flour, sugar, salt, yeast, warm milk, egg, and the cooled tangzhong. Knead (by hand for 10 minutes or stand mixer on low for 7 minutes) until smooth. Add softened butter in chunks, continuing to knead until the dough is smooth, elastic, and passes the windowpane test. This step matters — don't shortcut it.
Cover and let rise until doubled, about 1.5 hours.
The topping: While the dough rises, cream butter and powdered sugar. Add egg. Mix in flour, baking powder, and custard powder until you get a smooth, soft dough. Divide into 8 portions and flatten into discs slightly larger than the buns will be.
Assembly: Punch down bread dough and divide into 8 equal pieces. Shape each into a smooth ball. Drape a cookie topping disc over each ball, gently pressing to adhere. Score a crosshatch pattern on top with a knife (this creates the pineapple look). Brush with egg wash.
Bake at 375°F (190°C) for 15-18 minutes. The topping should be golden and crackled, the bread fully baked but still soft.
What Went Wrong?
- Bread is dense: Didn't knead enough or dough didn't rise fully. Be patient.
- Cookie topping slid off: Dough balls were too warm/soft when you put the topping on, or the topping was too stiff. Both should be at room temperature.
- Topping didn't crack: Too much liquid in the cookie dough. It should be firm-ish, like sugar cookie dough.
These aren't exactly like the ones from Popo's favorite bakery — those were probably made with some mystery ingredients I'll never identify. But they're close. Close enough to make me feel like I'm in the back seat of her car again, getting crumbs everywhere.